SYNCHROWOOD.COM SDN. BHD. (“Floorbit”) requires all Waterblock X flooring supplied by Floorbit be installed according to our most current installation instructions to maintain full product warranty coverage. The most current installation manual can be found online at floorbit.com/pages/waterblock-x-installation-manual. Instructions on maintenance and warranty documentation are also available online. The best practice is to have the flooring installed by professional installation technicians. Keep the original sales receipt (proof of purchase), all moisture/relative humidity testing, and installers receipt for warranty purposes. Floorbit requires that the flooring be maintained according to our most current care and maintenance guidelines available at floorbit.com/pages/waterblock-x-care-and-maintenance. Please contact ecommerce@floorbit.com or 012-851 1678 for any additional questions not covered in this manual.

• Acclimation of material prior to installation is not required.
• Waterblock X can be installed on subfloors that are on, above, or below grade.
• Waterblock X is intended for indoor use only and is warranted as floor covering only.
• Waterblock X should only be installed after all the other trades have finished and the job site has been cleared of any debris that could damage a finished installation.
• Install cabinets and/or permanent ‘islands’ prior to installing flooring. Do not install cabinets, islands and such on top of floating flooring.
• Do not install Waterblock X in areas subject to frequent standing water or in continually wet areas, such as shower floors, saunas, and steam rooms. This flooring is waterproof from topical moisture, when installed properly with a sealed perimeter. However, excessive moisture in the subfloor could promote mould, mildew, and other moisture related issues by trapping moisture emissions under the flooring, which may contribute to an unhealthy indoor environment.
• Boxes should be stored horizontally on a flat and level surface with the corners protected from damage. Do not store cartons on their sides.
• When ordering flooring, order 5% more square footage than the measured space to receive flooring. Where multiple angles or obstacles exist, more than 10% overage may be necessary.
• Floorbit recommends the homeowner keep a minimum of one full box for future repair or replacement.
• Inspect all flooring. Confirm the product to be installed is the correct model and colour. Do not install flooring that is not the correct model and colour. Do not install damaged or defective flooring. Floorbit will not be liable where incorrect flooring, damaged flooring, or flooring with visible defects have been installed.
• Extremely heavy loads can pin the floating product to the substrate which may prevent the product from expanding and contracting evenly, causing side or end separation, peaking, or gapping.

• Floorbit requires a (6-8 mil) polyethylene vapour barrier or concrete moisture sealer be used under our floating floors that are installed on concrete that is on or below grade.
• The proper application and subfloor requirements of the moisture sealer are the sole responsibility of the dealer/installer.
• Floorbit will not be responsible for flooring failures due to subfloor moisture
  issues when a moisture sealer has been applied incorrectly.

• Begin at starting wall. Roll out the poly parallel to the starting wall and allow it to run up the wall 2”.
• Smooth out any creases or wrinkles.
• Roll out the next run and overlap the seam a minimum of 2”.
• Smooth out any creases or wrinkles.
• Use a tape of sufficient width to tape the seams together.
• Install the flooring over the poly taking care not to damage the poly.
• Note: To prevent a trip hazard, do not install the poly over the entire subfloor. Roll the poly out one row at a time as needed.

Waterblock X does not have an attached underlayment. An underlayment is required for this flooring. Floorbit recommend a maximum thickness of 2mm.

The flooring is laid without the use of any adhesives or other means of attachment, the tongue and groove are mechanically locked together. Except where instructed, under no circumstances must the panels be glued, nailed, or otherwise fixed (e.g., heavy objects, aquariums, etc.) to the subfloor.

Room sizes up to 15m in width and 15m in length require a perimeter expansion gaps of 8mm around the flooring and all fixed vertical objects. Room sizes larger than 15m in width and 15m in length require a perimeter expansion gaps of 12mm around the flooring and all fixed vertical objects. Floorbit do not recommend installing Waterblock X in rooms larger than 2500 sq. ft. without expansion transition profiles. The 8-12 mm expansion gap must be maintained between the transition and the flooring. Waterblock X flooring consists largely of wood fibres. Wood is a hygroscopic material and always adapts to the ambient humidity, which in turn results in a change in dimension. The expansion can reach up to 2 mm/m. This fact should be considered from a construction viewpoint when laying the flooring. Expansion gaps of at least 8mm must be provided in doorways. These expansion gaps can be covered with profiles, or Rollskirt (compressible polyethylene (PE) foam backer rod) and silicone sealant. This flooring must be installed as a floating floor and will require using T-profiles in any doorways that are less than 81.28cm (32 inches) wide or in the case of changes in plank direction between rooms, regardless of doorway width. T-profiles are also required in rooms with a continuous run of 15m or longer in width or length. In typical T, – L or U– shaped rooms it may also be necessary to install a dilatation joint. Contact Floorbit customer service in case of doubt. 

Experienced professional installation technicians may install Waterblock X continuously without transition profiles in areas up to 5,000 sq. ft., and through doorways by undercutting wooden door jambs, while maintaining the required (8-12mm) perimeter expansion gaps around the flooring and all fixed vertical objects.

Please note: the ability of the floor to float must not be constrained by any hardware such as nails, screws, or other fixed obstructions, including glue.

• The subfloor must be clean, dry, structurally sound, firm, and secure.
• The subfloor should be free of dust, debris, paint, varnish, wax, grease, oils, curing agents, sealers, solvents, and other foreign matter. Any adhesive residue should be reduced to a thin well-bonded residue.
• Never use solvents or citrus adhesive removers to remove old adhesive residue. Solvent residue left in and on the subfloor may affect the new floor covering.
• The final responsibility for determining if a subfloor is acceptable for installation of the Waterblock X lies with the floorcovering installer.

Dry, level, firm and clean subfloor.

The subfloor must be even to a max. 3 mm/m. Small differences in floor level can be adjusted with an underlay. Differences in floor level of more than max. 3 mm/m must either be sanded down or filled in with filling/leveling compound. The subfloor must be flat within 4.7mm per 3m radius.

Existing fixed carpets, needle felt carpets are unhygienic and too soft for installing flooring over and must be removed.

An installation over PVC and linoleum can only be done if the floor is flat, even, glued down, and has no loose areas.

The subfloor must be clean and free of any debris before installing the flooring.

A freshly poured concrete floor should be dry for at least 1 week for every 0.95cm (3/8-inch) thickness up to 3.81cm (1-1/2 inches). Any thicknesses that are over 3.81cm will require double the drying time. For Example: a 6.35cm (2-1/2-inch) concrete subfloor will need to dry for a minimum of 8 weeks before flooring can be installed over it. When using a calcium chloride moisture test for concrete subfloors, values must be ≤ 2.27kg (5 lbs.)/1000ft²/24-hr or <80% RH with an In Situ probe. The time it takes for drying depends on the climate conditions, any stated drying times should be considered guidelines. To be certain of the moisture content, the concrete should be tested using an appropriate measuring device.

A PE film (polyethylene film) or similar of at least 0.2mm (6mil) thickness must be used as a vapour barrier against any possible rising moisture coming from the subfloor. This PE film is required on concrete that is on or below grade. Allow the PE film to overlap by 2 inches. If adhesive strips are not present, tape the overlap with standard waterproof clear packaging tape. The 6mil poly is the minimum thickness that should be used. Pull the film 2“ up the wall.

Wooden constructions must be sufficiently ventilated (4cm² ventilation area/ m² of flooring). Principally subfloors consisting of wood (chipboard, hardboard, and floorboard etc.) must not be covered with airtight materials as beneath the covering mould and mildew find ideal conditions to exist which can damage the floor. The moisture content of the wood may not exceed 12%.
Since sufficient ventilation must be allowed, in sections of the installation near the wall wooden strip must be adjusted to allow for ventilation to pass through floor construction, including after the floor is installed.

• Waterblock X can be installed over most existing hard surface flooring if it is clean, dry, flat, structurally sound and free from deflection.
• This product can be installed over existing hardwood floors, and ceramic/porcelain tile products with up to a 0.64cm (1/4”) wide grout joint. If the grout joint width exceeds 0.64cm (1/4”), a Portland based cementitious patching compound should be used to fill the grout joint to make it smooth with the surface of the tile.
• Properly cleanse any existing marble/terrazzo flooring using a commercial degreasing/dewaxing solution. Rinse thoroughly then dry thoroughly. Grind or abrade any highly polished or irregular surfaces.
• Do not install directly over engineered hardwood floors.
• Do not install over cushion-backed vinyl flooring, asphalt-based floors, carpet and/or carpet pad, self-adhering plank or tile, laminate, other floating flooring, or structurally-damaged concrete.

• Areas up to 2500 sq. ft. require a minimum of 8mm expansion space around the perimeter of the room and all permanent vertical obstructions. Areas larger than 2500 sq. ft. require 12mm perimeter expansion gaps.
• Make certain that doors, flooring accessories, etc. allow sufficient clearance above the flooring.
• Remove existing floor accessories (where applicable) and undercut wooden door jambs (where applicable).
• When sawing the panels make sure that the expansion joint under the door is at least 8mm. If you cannot lift the plank, use the tapping block or pulling iron and hammer to tap the planks together when the planks are flat on the floor. 

Recommended installation direction is lengthwise to the main light source and running parallel to the longest wall. Flooring consists of several individual boards. The single planks can always be seen in strong light.

The joints are more visible crosswise than lengthwise to the light source. Because of the panel format there are less joints in the length than in the width. This is only recommended because there are also other influences.

Prepare at least 4 boxes of flooring. Mix panels from different boxes during installation. Floorbit recommend alternate fitting of the panels from four different boxes at the same time, paying attention not to lay panels with the exact same design, adjacent or connecting to each other. Keep alternating the panels across the entire floor area. This guarantees the best possible appearance of your flooring product.

Always carefully inspect the panels for visual damage before installation. Including for: colour, decor, edge profile milling and small damages or visual imperfections on the surface. Panels with minor damage can be used in situations where the panels have to be cut. The installation must be done using daylight or equivalent good lighting because it can be possible that small damages cannot be recognised without proper lighting. No complaints can be accepted in the case of panels with visual defects which have already been installed.

Tape measure, Framing square, Utility knife, Spacers (8mm, 12mm), Tapping block, Table saw, Pull bar, Hammer, Chisel, Circular saw, Rollskirt (PE foam backer rod), Silicone sealant, Safety glasses, Dust mask, Pencil

Please insure a minimum of > 50 mm (> 2’’) width of the first and last row.

The panels must follow the course of the wall; unevenness 5 mm (1/5“) must be marked on the first row of panels using a spacer. The panels must be sawn lengthways following the marking. The last row of panels at the opposite wall should not be less than 5 cm (2“) wide, if so, the width of the first row of panels should be cut down lengthways to avoid this. Please make sure that there is a min. distance to the wall of 8 mm - 12 mm. Keep this in mind when calculating the last row.

Mark length, of last panel in each row to allow for minimum offset to the following rows. For accurate cutting of the last panel in the row, rotate this through 180° degrees; and with the pattern side upwards, place beside the already installed row. Allow for distance from wall at end of panel. Mark out offcut and saw off. Always saw from the upper surface of the panel (to avoid splintering the edges). Only when using an electric jig saw or a hand-held circular saw should the patterned side be placed facing downwards. Start each row with the left-over piece from the preceding row. Make sure there is an appropriate offset (min 8") between the short ends of the new and preceding row, as this creates stability in the floor.

1. First install the underlay, per width and gradually as you progress. It is vital that you use underlays to smooth any unevenness in the base floor.
2. Begin the first row with a whole panel. First saw off the tongue on both the long and the short sides. 
3. Put the panel with sawn-off sides against the walls. Put spacers from the installation kit between the panels and the wall. This will ensure that your expansion gap is wide enough: at least 8mm. 
4. Saw the panels. To obtain a clean cut, the pattern side should face down when you use a jigsaw, sabre saw or circular handsaw, and up when you use a handsaw or a crosscut saw. Ensure that the end joints of the panels in two successive rows are never in line. Always ensure that the joints are staggered by at least 30cm (12 inches).
5. Start with the first panel that will be installed in the corner. Remove the click profile on both the long and the short side of the plank by sawing. For other panels of the first row (not in the corner), remove the click profile on the long side that will be directly next to the wall. Any side of a plank that is directly next to a wall, must have its click profile removed, in order to ensure the required expansion gap. 
6. In order to make the start of the installation easier, assemble the first 3 rows away from the wall, so you can sit on the panels during the assembly. Then slide the first 3 rows at the wanted position close to the wall with distance spacers in place. Take a thin rope and hold it alongside the installed panels to check and adjust the straightness of your installed first 3 rows. It is recommended to make additional checks of the straightness, in order to confirm the straightness during the installation. Remember to use the distance spacers for the expansion gap of 8mm along the perimeter. 
7. You can install the panels by using the angle-angle method: First, rotate the short side of the panel to be installed, into the short side of the already installed panel, by means of the angle principle. Then raise the newly installed panel to an angle of 20-30°. This will also raise the previously installed panels in the same row, because their short sides are already connected. Place your hands close to the joint and pull the long side of the panel towards you. The panels will now click together. You can either insert the tongue into the groove, or the groove on to the tongue. The tongue in groove method is the most common and easiest way.
8. In places where it is too difficult to install the panels with the tapping block (e.g. against the wall), you can tap them together using the pulling iron and a hammer. 
9. Continue like this to the end of the room.

Special cases: If you are not able to angle the panels (e.g., under a door jamb) you must cut away the locking edge of lip of the bottom groove by using a wood chisel or a small block plane. Run a bead of glue on the modified tongue and groove. Tap the panels tight together by using a hammer and tapping block or pull-bar. If necessary, fix it with an adhesive tape.

Position the panel row so that a short end coincides with the pipe. Join up the sawn-off piece again tightly behind the pipe (using the spacer). Position the panel row so that a transverse joint coincides with the pipe. First cut the panel to the correct length. Then lay the panel section beside the actual position, measure the recesses with the ruler and draw in.

In rows where there is a pipe, make sure the pipe falls exactly in line with the short side of two panels. Take a drill bit with the same diameter as the pipe plus 24mm. Click the planks together on the short side and drill a hole centred on the joint between the two panels. Now you can install the planks on the floor.  

In rows where there is a double pipe, proceed as follows: 1. Measure where the pipe will come through the panel. Don’t forget to allow for the expansion gap 2. Take a drill bit measuring the diameter of the pipe plus 24 mm for the expansion. Drill through the panel where the pipe will come through 3. Extend the hole to the edge of the plank 4. Lay the panel around the pipe 5. Take another panel and saw a piece that fits exactly in the remaining hole, and glue this piece with wood glue. 

(Minimum distance 8 mm - 12 mm). Lay a panel next to the door jamb (with the patterned side facing downwards). Cut into the door jamb with the straight back saw. Then slide the panel under the jamb with the patterned side upwards. Do not forget to allow for expansion space here 8mm - 12 mm.

(Minimum distance 8 mm - 12 mm). Mark the measurements of the metal door jamb on the panel, remember the necessary expansion space of 8 mm - 12 mm on each side. Now saw out the marked section on the panel.

Place the panel and make sure that the freedom of movement is given 8 mm - 12 mm.

If the installation is to take place in an area that is susceptible to spills or liquid getting behind skirting boards, the perimeter of the room must be completely sealed. A 6-8mm Rollskirt (PE foam backer rod) should be inserted into all expansion spaces. Then the Rollskirt should be completely covered with 100% silicone sealant around the entire perimeter of the installation. An acrylic sealant should not be used. Any fixed objects, door jambs, toilets, etc. should be sealed in the same way using Rollskirt and 100% silicone sealant that remains flexible when dry to retard moisture from getting under the flooring. A small silicone bead should be applied where the skirting meets the floor, creating a perimeter barrier to prevent any spills or liquids from getting underneath or behind the skirting. For a perfect finish around pipes, apply silicone sealant on top of the RollSkirt in the expansion gaps. Then place the pipe cover and apply silicone sealant around the pipe cover and around the pipes. This makes the ingress of water impossible. 

• After all planks have been installed, remove spacers from perimeter of room.
• Installers can cover the gap between the bottom of the door jamb and flooring with a silicone caulk. Make sure the caulk does not impede the expansion space.
• Skirting should be of sufficient size to cover the expansion space and should be fastened to the wall, not to the flooring. Do not fasten any skirting through the flooring. This method allows the floor to expand and contract under the skirting. 
• Waterblock X can also be installed without skirting by using RollSkirt and silicone sealant to seal the perimeter expansion gaps.
• When moving heavy items, always carry them. Never push or pull furniture or other heavy items over Waterblock X.
• Use floor protectors under the legs of furniture and chairs. Use chair pads where concentrated roller traffic will occur.
• UV protective film, blinds, curtains, or shades must be used to assure that flooring are protected from direct sunlight.

Use felt protectors for furniture feet. The Waterblock X floor is very hygienic and easy to care for. Please, however, give the following rules your attention: For daily care, sweeping or vacuuming will suffice. Footprints and dirt can easily be removed with damp cloth. Please use a well-wrung out mop. Do not soak or saturate the flooring. Hardened glue-residue can be removed with acetone or a special glue solvent or usual household cleaners may be used, please avoid scouring agents, wax or polish. Larger soiling and persistent stains like colour, glue, nail varnish or oil can easily be removed using acetone or any other alcohol containing solvents.

Put flowerpots on water resistant mats. Furniture legs ought to be fitted with felt gliding pad. Rollable furniture should have soft rubber rollers.

Published Date: January 28, 2026