a. UV-resistant coating
Protect the decorative paper from fading and discolouration.
The overlay is a transparent film that protects the decor paper underneath from mechanical influence. This top layer makes your Floorbit floor resistant to stains, wear, and impact.
Natural wood grain
Emulates the texture of the natural wood grain so that you can feel the fine grain on the surface of the floor. This texture is laser-engraved, based on digital scans of natural wood veneer.
Abrasion resistance refers to the resistance of solid surfaces such as laminate against mechanical strain, particularly friction. Friction class is determined by machining a test body with wheels covered with sandpaper. The test body is checked for abrasion every 100 turns. The unit is AC and the higher the value, the lower the abrasion is.
Floorbit 5mm, rated as AC3, is suitable for residential areas with intensive usage. It can be used anywhere in the home from the staircase to the living room and bedroom through to the kitchen and entrances. Whether you are looking for flooring for a completely new building, for renovating existing houses, or for individual rooms, Floorbit 5mm is up to any challenge.
Floorbit flooring is non-staining. Even furniture or chair castors leave no traces. The floor is easy to clean due to the tightly sealed surface, preventing dirt from sticking. Stains of all kinds, in the kitchen or otherwise, can easily be removed from the planks using acetone, thinner, or alcohol.
The textures on the floorboards increase stability and reduce the chances of slips and falls. Anti-slip properties ensure a comfortable walking experience in all rooms.
c. Decorative Layer
Decor describes the appearance of a floor’s surface. This layer of DPL floor covering can be printed with any natural wood design without using harmful dyes and pigments. Wood surface reproduction is printed on the decorative foil using digital imaging techniques.
The coreboard forms the heart of the floor and is durable, stable, and highly moisture-resistant. The coreboard provides better plank stability and allows the click profile to be manufactured precisely. It has average density of above 1200kg/m³, so it is more resistant to wear and tear.
Made of waterproof composite material, the coreboard has a high degree of hardness, density, and insignificant swelling behaviour to moisture. High moisture resistance prevents joints from swelling. It is also termite-resistant, without the use of any insecticide.
e. Backing Layer
This waterproof backing layer helps to balance the product and provides a high degree of dimensional stability. It ensures that the floor will not cup or bow when properly installed and maintained.
Patented DPL TechnoBalancer
The backing layer is adhered to the bottom of the coreboard in a single production step using DPL technology. This protects the coreboard from moisture.
Our logo is embossed at the back of each plank to signify the authenticity of the product.
Floorbit 5mm V
Waterproof flooring with patented DPL TechnoBalancer, can be installed without skirting.
Resources and Specifications
|Number of grooves||4
(These planks have 4 grooves on all four sides, giving the flooring a rustic look)
|Type of grooves||Genuine bevel
(The colour, design, and structure go through the bevel from plank to plank)
|Abrasion Class / Usage Class||AC3|
|Surface Texture||Wood Grain (WG)|
|Planks / Box||10|
|sq ft / Box||23.68|
|Weight / Box||approx. 24 kg|
|Boxes / Pal||50|
|sq ft / Pal||1184|
|Weight / Pal||approx. 1225 kg|
|Pal / 20ft container||20|
|Coreboard||Waterproof Composite Material|
|Nominal thickness||EN 13329||± 0.5mm|
|Squareness||EN 13329||≤ 0.25mm|
|Straightness||EN 13329||≤ 0.30mm|
|Flatness of the elements||EN 13329||≤ 1.20%|
|Openings||EN 13329||≤ 0.25mm|
|Height difference||EN 13329||± 0.20mm|
|Light fastness||EN ISO 105 B02||Blue Wool Scale ≥ 6|
|Density||EN 323:1993||923.8 g/cm³|
|Resistance to cigarette burns||EN 438||Class 4|
|Thickness swelling||EN 13329 Annex G||0% (≤ 18%)|
|Movement of a furniture leg||EN 424||No damage|
|Castor chair resistance||EN 425||No damage|
|Resistance to staining||EN 438||5 (group 1 & 2)|
|Impact resistance||EN 13329 Annex F||IC 1|
|Wear resistance||EN 13329:2017||class AC3|
|Level of Usage||ISO 24336:2005||21-23 and 31|
|Reaction to fire||EN ISO 1716||Class B|
|Formaldehyde-Emission||EN 717-1:2005||class E1|
|Heavy Metals||EPA 3052 & 6060B||N.D., Pass|
|Phthalate test||CPSC-CH-C1001-09.3||Not Detected PASS|
|Hardness Section 17||ASTM D 1037:12
|Front View Average (N): 3907
Back View Average (N): 3887
|Residual Indentation||ASTM F3261-17
|Max. Value :0.15mm|
|Soluble elements analysis in non-surface coating materials||ASTM F963-17||Not Detected PASS|
|Dimensional Stability and Curling||ASTM F3261-17
|Dimensional Stability: 0.05%
|Static Load Resistance||ASTM F3261-17
|Average Value: 0.01mm|
|Locking Strength||ISO 24334:2014||F0.2 is Fmax0|
|Standard Coefficient of Friction (Standard Leather)||ASTM D 2047-11||Dry:: 0.43
Does not require test under wet condition
|Peel Strength||ASTM D903-98 (2017)||Type of Failure:
Separate between the wear layer and core material by peeling
Mean: 0.34 Kg/mm
Floorbit reserves the right to amend the specifications, colours, and dimensions of any product without prior warning.
All colours of the products shown may vary from reality.
We can supply and install flooring for you. Our trained installers will do all of the work so all you have to do is to enjoy your new Floorbit flooring. Most customers take about 1 to 2 days to install their flooring.
A professional installation assures your entitlement to our warranty service, and you can rely on the fact that our flooring experts will have neat solutions on hand even for tricky areas such as uneven flooring or transitions to tiled or carpeted flooring.
You can install all Floorbit flooring as a floating installation. With this type of flooring installation, nothing is glued or screwed down. The individual floorboards are connected with the help of our flooring click system. The flooring rests on the subfloor without a firm bond and can move freely. Thanks to Floorbit flooring click systems, a floating installation is simple, quick, and flexible.
We engineer our flooring for years of daily use, but proper care and maintenance are still crucial to ensure they stay in good condition. For tips on keeping your flooring in pristine condition, we’ve put together a handy Aftercare Guidewith detailed maintenance instructions.
Once your order has been successfully placed, we’ll send you an order confirmation email with your order details. When your order ships, you’ll then receive a shipping confirmation email. We recommend that you’re home on the day of delivery to receive your order.
First of all, there’s the price. Laminate is more cost-effective than buying hardwood, and yet it is nearly indistinguishable from the real thing. If you want the hardwood look on a budget, laminate is the perfect choice for you.
Second, laminate is more durable than hardwood, which is easily susceptible to scratching and moisture damage. If you have pets or small children in the house, you may not have the time to maintain expensive hardwood floors. With laminate, there’s less worry when it comes to wear and tear.
With many different textures to choose from, low-gloss finishes and a heavy-duty wear layer, laminate is highly resistant to stains and spills. Laminate is also known for its versatility. Our product designers can simulate the look of any number of natural hardwood, using digital photographic techniques and transferring it to the floor. We can also replicate natural textures and patterns, creating the look of real wood flooring.
DPL (Direct Press Laminate) laminate flooring consists of several layers. On the top side, there is a decor with a transparent, wear-resistant protective film. In the middle, there is a core layer made of high-density composite material and on the backside, there is a stabilizing layer to guarantee floor stability. The decorative paper of DPL floor covering can be printed with any design and gives the floor its unique appearance.
Floorbit laminate planks are available in thicknesses of 4mm, 5mm, 8mm, 8.5mm, 8.6mm, 12mm, and 12.6mm. Thinner laminate is usually required, for example, when it has to fit under doors. Thicker laminate is naturally more stable and also quieter. The thicker the planks, the more stable the connection as the click connection for Floorbit laminate matches the thickness of the planks.
The laminate is not fixed to the sub-floor but just laid on top of it. This allows the wood material to have enough space to expand or contract depending on the temperature and humidity.
Floating installation is a simple way of installing laminate flooring. It is also easy to remove again.
Synchronised decor is where the visual design and embossing of wood grain combine to get a result that is virtually indiscernible from solid wood.
Laminate flooring is manufactured without pesticides, organochlorine compounds, and harmful heavy metals. Due to the melamine resin overlay, the surface is closed and provides house-dust mites and microorganisms, only a small breeding ground.
The closed surface structure prevents the accumulation of dust or dirt. Dust mites and other allergy-causing organisms cannot survive on a clean laminate floor. This helps to protect your home from allergens which is important for people suffering from asthma or dust allergies.
Moreover, the sealed surface and finishing make Floorbit floor easy to clean. You can clean your Floorbit laminate floor with a damp (slightly moistened) mop to remove all dust, including fine dust.
There is no compulsory laying direction. However, we recommend the laying direction to the light.
The long lines generated by the laminate floor planks often lead the eyes in that direction. The light coming from the windows has the same effect of leading your eyes in a certain direction. If you have a window where sunlight enters the room, install your laminate floor in the direction perpendicular to the placement of the window. The long lines of your laminate floor will then become parallel to the direction of the light entering the windows. It is easier for the eyes to move along the direction of sunlight and the long lines of your laminate flooring simultaneously.
Laminate is a durable and versatile flooring. It can withstand the heavy traffic of a living room, the non-stop action of a kids' room, and even the occasional dropped spoon in the kitchen. The reinforced top wear layer protects against stains and dirt while offering resistance to moisture. This makes laminate an excellent choice for entryways and hallways that experience constant foot traffic. The wear layer also provides UV protection to prevent fading from prolonged exposure to sunlight, making it suitable for rooms with large windows. With a few exceptions, such as carpet, laminate can be installed over almost any existing, structurally sound floor. Special considerations may be needed when installing laminate in a kitchen or bathroom to avoid any water-related issues. Contact us if you need help with laminate installation in these areas.
Floorbit flooring can be installed in any room inside the house where the floor is solid and flat. However, it should not be installed in rooms with sump pumps or floor drains and in motor homes, boats or planes.
Laminate flooring is also often installed in commercial establishments, including hotels, restaurants, offices, and shops. These floors naturally take more of a beating than in homes, so make sure you choose a product with an appropriate utilisation or abrasion class.
No. Although it may seem a good idea to install laminate over carpeting, there are a few reasons not to regardless of whether it is high-pile or low-pile, Persian style or flokati:
Carpets become uneven as frequently used walking paths are pushed down by passing feet. High-pile carpeting is especially prone to this, but low-pile products also have a certain amount of play and can be permanently compressed. In these places, the laminate flooring is likely to warp. This unevenness also stresses the joints of snap-together laminate flooring, as they need to withstand greater forces than would be the case if the planks were level.
Dust and mites naturally accumulate in carpets, which normally isn’t a problem as they can be vacuumed. But after covering them with laminate flooring, it is no longer possible to remove them. This can pose problems for someone with allergies because the laminate can trap moisture in the carpet, creating ideal conditions for mildew and mould.
It’s a mistaken belief that carpets can replace underlays to reduce impact sound. It is far better to use high-quality insulation that is specifically designed to work with laminate flooring.
Please check carefully whether your substrate is suitable for laminate flooring or if you should pre-treat it to make sure that your laminate can last for a long time. Damage caused by incorrect installation or unsuitable substrates is excluded from the warranty.
Yes, but with certain precautions. The concrete must be fully set. Moisture readings from a calcium chloride test (available at home centers) must be no more than 5lbs/1000 sq ft/24 hours or less than 80% RH with an in situ probe. Should moisture record above these levels, Floorbit flooring is not recommended. In all cases, a 6 mil polyethylene moisture barrier sealed with at least 2” of waterproof OPP tape is required on all concrete installations.
Yes. Floorbit Laminate floors have a scratch and wear-resistant surface layer. It can be installed in the kitchen as a floating floor, not under kitchen furniture so that it is able to move.
Because of the moisture-resistant HDF coreboard, an accident such as a glass of water falling on the floor is not a problem. However, we recommend removing any standing moisture as soon as reasonably possible.
Naturally, laminate flooring in your kitchen will have to be cleaned more frequently than in other rooms of your house. However, there's no need to wash the floor because the sealed surface structure prevents dirt and dust from attaching. Usually, dry cleaning with a microfibre mop is sufficient. Floors with bevelled edges must be vacuumed first. Occasionally, the floor can be cleaned with a damp or slightly moist microfibre mop.
Until recently, Floorbit didn't have laminate floors that were suitable for use in damp rooms such as bathrooms. This has changed with the introduction of the Floorbit collection.
However, the installation will require a trained installer, and laminate should not be installed in saunas.
Yes. The exact installation method depends on which type of floor you want to install the laminate flooring on.
On a damp-porous floor covering
Remove any damp-porous floor covering such as carpet or needle felt before installing Floorbit laminate.
On a damp-sealed floor covering
Damp-sealed floor covering such as PV, linoleum, or VCT doesn't have to be removed, but a Floorbit underlay should be installed.
On a wooden subfloor
When you have a wooden subfloor, you don't have to remove every existing floor covering.
No signs of mould and/or insect infestation should be present. Make sure that the subfloor is level by nailing down any loose parts. The moisture content of the wood must not exceed 10%. Install the Floorbit underlay, before installing the new floor at ninety degrees (perpendicular) to the existing subfloor.
Yes. However, it’s recommended to take a few protective measures.
Use soft castors. Many office chairs can be ordered with soft or hard castors. Soft castors typically have an outside layer of different materials and colours (usually light grey). Soft castors will considerably extend the lifetime of your laminate flooring. An additional benefit is that soft castors on a hard floor covering like laminate will increase sitting comfort.
Additionally, you can put a protective mat under your office chairs. Choose a mat for hard floor coverings without profiling on the back. Make sure that the size is big enough. In the case of intensive castor chair traffic, the combination of soft castors and a protective mat is advised.
Yes, you can also install laminate on walls. You will either need a substructure for attaching them, or the planks are glued directly.
However, if you install laminate flooring on walls, you are not using it for its intended purpose. This will invalidate any guarantee or warranty.
Yes, you can. Make sure to install a suitable Floorbit underlay (with a built-in moisture barrier) under the floor and provide sufficiently large expansion gaps so that the installed floor can freely move under the skirting boards. Also, avoid standing water or other liquids on the floor, and put suitable doormats outside to collect dirt. Colour fading due to long-term sunlight exposure may occur.
You can easily cover your stairs with Floorbit laminate using the Floorbit stairnose. The only condition is that the steps of your staircase must be straight. Staircase installation typically will take an additional day to finish.
Here's how it works:
Glue a cut-to-size laminate plank to the riser. Apply glue to the stairnose and the step. Spread out the glue across the stairnose. Place a laminate plank on the step with the underside of the tongue against the edge of the front of the stairnose.
It is possible but not recommended as it will make the warranty void. However, in certain areas such as the staircase and bathroom, the flooring must be glued down with the assistance of a trained installer.
It is incorrect to assume that a glued joint is stronger than the Floorbit mechanical joint. The actual strength of glued joints depends on how the planks were glued. The type, amount, and method of glue applied must be correct and the glue has to cure at the right temperature for a long enough time.
With Floorbit click system, you can install the floor by clicking the planks together without glue. The joints are guaranteed to stay together.
Benefits of click installation:
Quick and easy installation
You can walk on the floor during and immediately after installation
You can remove the floor and install it somewhere else easily when you move
Even floor surface
It can be straightforward to figure out how much laminate is needed to cover a floor, but occasionally it can also be tricky if a room has a complex geometry. We have a few tips to help you avoid buying too much laminate or, worse, not enough.
Ideally, you can use the floor plan of your property to calculate a given room’s area. But if this option isn’t available, you’ll have to get out the tape measure and do it by hand. It’s easiest when rooms are rectangular or square because you only need to measure the length and width and then multiply them. If you have a room with recessed corners, niches, bay windows, or similar features, separately measure each part and then add them up.
We recommend you buy 10% more than the calculated area to allow for scrap. These include sawn-off bits and pieces of panels that can’t be used anywhere else. And if you have unusual rooms with acute or obtuse angles, lots of doors, or heating pipes, get even more as you’re likely to need it.
Finally, it’s a good idea to keep any leftover planks and skirting board after installation in case any repairs are required later.
Concrete floors or screeds need sufficient time to dry before you can start installing your Floorbit laminate floor on top. As a rule of thumb, you should wait for one week per cm of screed (thickness) up to 4 cm. Wait twice as long for every additional cm (thickness) up to 6 cm and wait 4 weeks for every additional cm beyond 6 cm. Make sure the building is sufficiently ventilated.
Moisture migrates from the bottom to the surface, this takes time. For new concrete floors, you should always lay an underlay on the concrete floor before installing the Floorbit laminate planks. Use Floorbit underlays to avoid problems later on.
Advised drying time
1 week per cm
> 6 cm
+ 4 weeks per additional cm
For example, for a 6 cm thick concrete floor, you should count on at least (4 x 1 week) + (2 x 2 weeks) = 8 weeks of drying time. For concrete floors thicker than 6 cm, expect 4 weeks of drying time per additional cm.
For ready-to-lay mineral substrates such as screed or concrete under unfavorable climatic conditions, moisture can rise and cause swelling and expansion. A vapour barrier protects the floor planks against rising dampness from the underground. The vapour barrier, usually a 0.2 mm polyethylene film, is placed below the underlay on the subsurface, overlapped by at least 2” of waterproof OPP tape, and pulled upwards on the walls.
An underlay forms the interface to the underground and performs important functions like the compensation of punctual bumps. They protect the entire flooring system in daily use and against rising dampness, as well as reduce walking and footstep noise.
When installing laminate flooring, it is important to leave a gap between the planks' edges and all walls. The gaps will be hidden by the skirting boards.
The core material of laminate flooring planks responds sensitively to changing environmental conditions such as heat, cold, and moisture. It expands and contracts as a result of absorbing and releasing moisture. That is why the planks need a little extra room, or there is a risk that they will press against the walls and warp.
Leave a 12mm gap between the laminate flooring and the walls on all sides. The same applies to other solid objects such as doorframes, heating pipes, and stoves that are flush with the floor and furniture. This gap won’t be visible later because it will be covered by skirting boards or end profiles.
If the room is larger than 8 by 12 metres, you should include a transition profile in the middle.
Insert spacers or wedges, which you can get from any DIY store, between the wall and the flooring. A cheaper alternative is to use common household items such as clothes pegs, corks, wooden blocks, or the like.
While laying the first row of planks, put spacers between the wall and the flooring roughly 50cm apart. Make sure that they aren’t right at joints between planks, move them slightly to one side (offset) if that is the case. Leave them where they are until you have laid the last row so that nothing can slip out of place while you’re working. Removing them at the end is easier with wedges from the DIY store, as other household items tend to get stuck.
If the gap doesn’t consistently have the right width, the laminate flooring may experience damage over time. Things that can happen include arching or warping of the flooring, cracks, peeling of the surface layer, or breaking of the tongue-and-groove joints.
The warranty on your new laminate flooring is void if you fail to include a gap of the right width between it and all fixed objects.
For laminate, the maximum length without transition profiles is 10m. The expansion gap should be 12mm.
In doorways, room transitions, and if floors connect asymmetrically, you always need to install transition profiles. Laminate floors are to be installed as floating floors so you should always leave a gap to walls and any other fixed constructions so that the flooring can move.
You can use a handsaw with a mitre box. However, this requires a high expenditure of force, takes longer, and causes shavings.
If you are experienced in the use of a circular table saw, you can use one. Cutting is fast but loud and raises dust and shavings.
You can also use a jigsaw. However, it is advisable to be experienced in handling one. It can cut laminate quickly and flexibly.
Laminate can best be cut with a laminate cutter. Such devices are easy to transport, and the laminate can be cut quietly without dust or shavings by employing a simple levering action.
Laminate can be disposed of with non-recyclable waste. If the volume is so high that regular waste bins are insufficient, please take the old laminate to the recycling or refuse disposal centre. Some local authorities also offer bulky waste collections which accept laminate.
If your new floor is installed by Floorbit, our installer will usually dispose of the old laminate.
If you are carrying out renovations or refurbishments on a larger scale and ordered a skip (waste disposal bin), you can also throw your old laminate into it.
It's always better to prevent humidity and moisture problems than to cure them afterwards.
Despite the good moisture-resistant characteristics of Floorbit laminate floors, we do not recommend installing them in damp rooms such as saunas and laundry areas. The Floorbit collection is suitable for bathrooms.
Please observe the following instructions when using laminate flooring in high humidity areas:
1. Maintain adequate expansion gaps to all ascending components.
2. Using silicone, lightly seal endpoints of elements such as skirting boards, profiles, and pipes, for the laminate flooring.
3. Make sure that no water goes under the laminate.
4. Do not leave puddles of water on the surface to dry. Avoid standing water and other liquids on the flooring surface at all times. You can easily clean the floor without water or with minimum quantities of water (damp). Loose sand and dust should be removed with a vacuum cleaner. Daily cleaning can be done with a dry microfibre mop.
5. Never wash your Floorbit Laminate floor.
Following these instructions should ensure that your laminate flooring lasts a long time in high humidity areas such as bathrooms and kitchens.
If the installation is done correctly, you should have some space left between the laminate boards and the wall. This will give the boards some leeway to shrink and expand when the humidity changes.
Install skirting boards or end profiles to cover the spaces between the wall and floor. You may glue or nail the skirting boards onto the wall. Then, use a silicon gun to spread some silicone on top of the skirting boards. Even the silicon out using your finger.
During humid periods, a rising floor may occur. That’s because humidity can expand or shrink the laminate boards. Your laminate floor will come up if they are too close to the wall.
You can fix a floor that rises in a few easy steps. You will need a chisel, a hammer, and a multi-tool. Some surplus laminate board comes in handy too.
Take the extra board or a straight slat and put it over your floorboards to figure out which of the floorboards is elevated. If you’ve found the rising board, figure out which wall the board has moved towards as this will help to determine which skirting board to pry loose.
Remove the skirting board with the hammer and chisel. Put the chisel between the wall and board and knock on the top of the chisel with the hammer. Once the skirting board is removed, you’ll see which board is too close to the wall. Get out a pencil and a slat. Draw a sawing line onto the bulging board. The line should be drawn at the same height as the boards next to the misplaced board.
Use the multi-tool to saw along the line, and remove the piece of wood. Get rid of the sawdust with a vacuum cleaner. Check whether the floor is flat again. If so, you can put the skirting board back where it belongs.
Humidity can make your laminate floorboards shrink or expand a bit. This fluctuation in humidity levels can cause them to become loose and move, resulting in openings between the boards. Fortunately, you don’t have to remove the entire floor to close these open joints.
Before you get started, you’ll need a few tools, a hammer, a chisel, a crowbar, and a tapping block. Wood glue is optional.
Take a close look at the open joint and try to determine in which direction the board moved. This is the side where you’ll remove the skirting board. Use the chisel and hammer to remove the skirting board on the side the laminate board moved towards. Once you’ve removed the skirting board, you’ll see which laminate board came undone. Using the hammer and tapping block, knock the board back in place to close the open juncture. You can use some wood glue in the crack between both boards to make sure it won’t come apart again. Finally, glue the skirting board back together.
If your laminate flooring creaks or squeaks when you walk on it, the reasons may be as follows:
inadequate distances from walls, door frames, heating pipes
transition profiles have not adhered to sub-floor
uneven sub-floor consists of old floorboards
tongue and groove not correctly connected
faulty underlay installation